Archives For color

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Simplifying an image can be difficult, but it starts with choosing a simple subject. Look for subjects that draw the eye and stands out from its surroundings. Don’t try to include the whole scene in the finished image – instead, choose a very simple composition that showcases just one area or object. Once you’ve identified your subject, look for distractions. It’s ok to have a secondary element in your shot… but avoid clutter.

Blinded by the Light - Varina Patel

I use lots of other techniques to simplify my images as well. If clashing colors are distracting – try converting to black and white. If dark shadows or bright highlights draw your attention away from the subject, use a diffuser to soften the light. Look for colors that are similar for a simplified color palette.

Trillium - Varina Patel

I like to use a long shutter speed to smooth the surface of a lake or pond to remove ripples on the surface. And sometimes I use a wide aperture to create a narrow depth of field that softens a distracting background.

The Quiet - Varina Patel

What techniques do you use to simplify a composition? Feel free to share examples and ideas in the comments!

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Peeling Back the Layers

Varina Patel —  April 11, 2013 — 6 Comments

Big Island - Hawai'i, USA

When I took this shot on the Big Island of Hawaii, I knew exactly what I wanted to do with it. Although the colors were rich and beautiful, I wanted to create a black and white version that would show off the soft contrast in the distance, and the repeating curves in the trees. When I want to convert to black and white, I usually start by producing a color image first. I want that full color shot for my archives, and in case someone asks for a color print. So, I started by adjusting the color balance – just as I would for any other photograph – and I go through my entire normal processing workflow. Once the color photo is finished, I save it, and then get back to work making adjustments for a black and white conversion. Here’s the original color photograph for reference. (You can click on any image to see it at larger size.)

Big Island - Hawai'i, USA

Before I get too far ahead of myself, I take a look at the finished color image and think about what I want to accomplish with my conversion. In this case, the image is about patterns and repetition. I wanted to make sure that the repeating patterns in the trees really stood out – so contrast was important. I also wanted to highlight the beautiful softness of the light filtering through the mist. I started by opening the image in Nik’s Silver Effex Pro. I chose on of my favorite filters to start with (024 Full Contrast and Structure), and made a few tweaks to it. I reduced the midtone structure just a bit, and then reduced the highlight tonality protection to make sure I kept the incredible glow on he leaves. Below, you can see what the Nik black and white conversion looked like.

hawaii_8969_NikBW

I loved the contrast in the finished conversion, but maybe you notice that the mist seems to have gotten lost. No problem. To bring it back, I needed a second black and white layer – and a mask. I hid  my Silver Efex layer (I didn’t delete it), and started again with the original color layer. This time, I used a simple Black and White adjustment layer. I converted the image to black and white again – this time, making sure I maintained the very soft contrast in the misty distance. Here’s what that layer looked like…

hawaii_8969_PSBW

Next, I created a mask so that the Black and White adjustment layer would have an effect only where I wanted it. I used my Wacom tablet and stylus to draw a simple selection, and feathered it pretty broadly and created the mask. Then, I zoomed in nice and close and made a few adjustments to the mask with the paintbrush tool to make sure I maintained a very natural look… I didn’t want tree trunks that were close to me to look hazy – just those in the distance. So blending the layers carefully was important. Here’s the black and white adjustment layer with the other layers turned off. You can see that the adjustments I made to this layer will only show up exactly where I wanted them.

hawaii_8969_mask

Maybe seeing the layers will be helpful, too. You can see that I started with the background layer (the bottom layer), and then created a Silver Efex layer for contrast. Then, I duplicated the background layer and placed it on top of the others. I created a black and white adjustment layer, and then added a mask to the background copy layer. The finished image is the one at the top of this post.

hawaii_8969_layers

 

So – what do you think? Do you think the finished image looks natural, and do you prefer the color image or the black and white conversion?

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Color or Monochrome?

Varina Patel —  February 19, 2013 — Leave a comment

When I decide to convert an image to monotone, it’s usually because I want to change what the image is about. What does that mean exactly? Well, take a look at this example.

Here’s a photograph of a wave off the coast of California. The color is pretty intense, and it helps to define the photograph. But what happens when I take those colors away?

Below is a monochrome version of the same photograph. I used Nik Silver Efex Pro to convert the image to black and white, adjust the contrast and add a smooth blue tone. The image is no longer defined by its color… at least not in the same way the first one is. Instead, this image is about texture, form, and contrast. All those elements are present in the first image, but the color is so intense that it really grabs your attention.

So, if I want my viewer to notice the beautiful textures in my photograph, converting to monotone removes color as a distracting element. What do you think?

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When you present your images for sale, consider using gallery features that allow you to group your images into categories based upon similarities. For example, I have a gallery that is dedicated only to unusual geology, and another that is just for water shots. You can set up a gallery for images with a dominant blue color theme, or for photographs from a specific location. Your options are wide open.

We use SmugMug for our online print sales, and I absolutely love the Smart Galleries feature. It lets you use keywords to create collections, so that potential buyers view images with shared characteristics. When a buyer wants more than one image, they often have a theme in mind. One buyer asked me for 30 detail shots that she could sell as a wallpaper collection. Another wanted several waterfall photographs for decorating a newly opened hospital. In Cleveland, a buyer wanted images of local parks and iconic locations for the walls in an office building. As you build your portfolio, keep an eye out for images that work well together, and be sure to present them as potential groupings.

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Sometimes, I can finish post-production work in just a few minutes… and sometimes, it takes a lot longer. This shot from Snowmass Wilderness in Colorado was a real challenge. Let me see if I can give you an idea of what made it difficult, and how I handled the processing. First, taking this shot was an amazing experience. We watched this storm coming toward us for a short time, and then grabbed our cameras and headed out to get a few shots. The first thing that caught my eye were the colors. The brilliant golden leaves were a perfect compliment to the deep blue tones in the approaching storm. I wanted to capture that juxtaposition – and also capture the chaos in the sky. I chose a simple composition – ignoring the lake behind the trees and choosing a single peak to minimize distractions. I took several shots, waiting for a moment when the skies were full of textures.

Because the leaves were moving in the high winds, I knew I would need to capture the entire dynamic range with a single exposure. If I couldn’t do that, I would end up with a “ghosting” effect as I worked on a blend. If I could process a single image twice – once for the leaves in the foreground and once for the background – I would get a much cleaner blend. Because the skies were heavily overcast, I was able to get the shot I needed.

As the storm blew closer, I could hear the rain falling on the water of the lake – getting closer and closer. As the first drops fell on my camera, I packed up and headed back to the car – just in time. We both love storms, so we watched the rain for a while, and then continued on our way.

The first step in post, was to process the image for the leaves in the foreground and then again for the background. You can see those two images below.

I processed the image once for the leaves…

…and once again for the background.

Then, I created a mask using the color selection tool to isolate the yellow leaves on the lighter layer. The blend sounds simple enough… but moving leaves can be difficult to deal with – even when you are processing a single image twice for a blend. The problem is that some leaves are moving more than others. So, some are slightly blurred, some are completely blurred, and others are sharp. When I make a color selection, I feather it slightly for a smoother blend. The problem is that the selection needs more feathering in areas that are more blurred, and less feathering in sharper areas. That’s a tough problem when you are dealing with thousands of leaves.

I blended the images in Photoshop using our manual iHDR techniques.

Of course, there are lots of different ways I could have solved the problem in Photoshop – some easier than others. But there was no quick fix this time. I tried several different methods for refining my mask – from isolating and subtracting the blue channel to creating a soft light layer and using a targeted luminosity mask to capture those edges. I even converted the image to the ProPhoto color space so I could create a smoother luminosity mask for a cleaner transition in high contrast areas. The problem was worst where the branches reached above the horizon into the sky, so I used a mask to target that area on another layer.

Here are the layers I used for blending. Notice that I also used curves layers to bring out some contrast in the background layer, and to bring back the blue tones I remembered from being on location.

Still, I wasn’t satisfied. In the end, I decided to work on a pixel-by-pixel basis. I zoomed in close, and used the Precision Mode option on my Wacom Intuos 5 tablet to work on those tiny details. I made very slight adjustments to the mask for the foreground trees layer – painting on the mask itself. I went back and forth between my black and white brushes, changing the size of the brushes with the touch ring as I went.

Leaves at 100% – before mask refinement. Can you see the dark lines around some of the leaves?

Finished leaves at 100% – shadows on the leaves, and similar tones in the background made masking difficult. I used Precision Mode on my Wacom tablet to clean up my mask for a clean finish.

Of course, I didn’t make adjustments to every single leaf. I targeted those that seemed distracting and took a few extra minutes in those areas. Post-production for this shot took more than an hour – though some of that time was spent experimenting with techniques that didn’t work. You can see the finished image at the top of this post. What do you think?

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My dad used to tell me to “get in close” when I was taking pictures with his sturdy little Pentax, K1000. It was good advice! When I’m shooting, I’m often thinking about how I can get close and fill my frame with my subject. I took this shot with a Canon 180mm macro lens. The greatest challenge when shooting macro is getting the focus just right – especially when you are outdoors and working with windy conditions – or a moving subject. In this case, I used a wide aperture (f/5) to capture a very narrow depth of field. This serves to eliminate the details in the background for a simpler image.

In post processing, I check my color balance carefully to make sure the greens looked natural. Then, I used my Wacom graphics tablet and stylus to draw a really quick selection around the tip of the grass and the water droplet. I feathered the selection, created a mask on a duplicated layer, and then sharpened the layer. The mask let me target my sharpening to the areas that needed it – leaving the background nice and soft.

The word reflection is usually used in reference to reflections on wet surfaces… but light is often reflected from other surfaces as well. In nature, this phenomenon is most obvious when light reflects off surface with smooth textures – such as sand, snow, salt, or mud. I took the image below just before sunrise at Mesquite Dunes in Death Valley National Park. Notice that the sand is reflecting the rich red and orange light from the clouds. Clouds and humidity will influence the color and intensity of the reflected light.

Death Valley National Park, CA

After the sun comes up, the color of the light usually becomes more golden. I took the next shot on another morning – this time, just after sunrise. On this particular day scattered clouds allowed the sunlight to come through and paint the dunes with an intense warm light.

I took the photograph below at mid-day under blue skies. As you might expect, the dunes in this image are reflecting the white midday light. The scene looks very different at noon than it does during the golden hour.

In many cases, your camera’s automatic settings will try to “correct” these natural color casts. Camera algorithms are set to determine a neutral base point, and to adjust the other colors accordingly. You can get past this annoying problem by paying attention to colors when you are shooting – and setting your color balance manually. Those color casts are real and beautiful! Don’t let your camera (or automatic settings in your processing software) make decisions about color balance for you!

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Aspen Leaf on Marble

Varina Patel —  November 6, 2012 — 2 Comments

Marble, Colorado is a tiny town that boasts a pretty darn impressive marble quarry, a lot of awfully nice people, and some absolutely beautiful scenery. As the leaves start to change color, photographers descend upon the town. The locals call us “The Leafers”. It’s a name I embrace. I am, most definitely, a Leafer at this time of year… seeking out colorful autumn foliage like a junkie. ;)

I used a 70-200mm lens for this shot. A macro lens would have worked just as well, but I didn’t need to focus too close… and Jay had absconded with the Macro lens anyway. :) Getting the exposure right was easy – the range of light is very narrow, as you can see. Actually, the hardest part was just finding the right leaf. I wanted one with a variety of colors. Most of the aspen leaves are a brilliant golden color – and they are lovely – but I wanted one with a little more character because I knew my background would be very subtle. Once I’d found my leaf, I carried it very carefully up the road toward the huge marble blocks that lined the roadside… I didn’t want to disturb the water droplets. Then, I scanned the surface of the stone –  looking for the right vein in the marble. It took just a moment to find the one I wanted… this jagged grey line that defines my marble background. I placed my leaf, set up my camera straight overhead – on a tripod. And took a shot. Not quite right. I bent down, pushed the stem just slightly so that it curved a bit, and took another shot. I zoomed in to check the image on the back of my camera – it was perfectly sharp. Done.

In post processing, I was very careful about color balance. I didn’t want the marble to appear at all yellow – or the leaf to have any tint of blue. Slight color casts in a shot like this would really dull the photograph. I removed a few tiny specks of dirt from the rock and the leaf, and brightened up the water droplets just a tiny bit.

This is, hands down, my favorite shot from the trip. I love the contrast between the colorful foreground and the subtle background. Heck – this one just makes me smile. What do you think?

Mirror, Mirror

Jay Patel —  October 17, 2012 — 1 Comment

If you are willing to cross Calf Creek at the end of the Calf Creek Falls Trail, you’ll find this pretty little reflecting pool. We arrived there at the height of the fall season – when the trees were showing their richest colors. The conditions were just perfect at that time of day because the entire are was in shade.

While this photograph is not a high dynamic range blend, I did use manual blending to combine two separate images. I used one shot for the reflections in the water, and a second shot for the rest of the image. I used a circular polarizer to bring out the rich fall colors and darken the wet rock on the canyon walls. Then I took another shot without the polarizer to capture the reflection of the waterfall in the pool. I blended these two shots to form the image you see here.

Leading the Eye

Varina Patel —  October 11, 2012 — Leave a comment

When I am planning a composition, I am constantly thinking about leading the eye. How can I make sure that my viewer is noticing the most important elements in my image? How can I keep my viewer’s eye from jumping around in the frame. I use a collection of techniques to “lead the eye.” There are an infinite number of ways to do it, but here are a few of the techniques I use.

Leading Lines

Leading Lines might be the most obvious way to lead the eye – and you shouldn’t ignore them. I am always looking for leading lines to help point my viewers in the right direction. But this certainly isn’t the only way to get your viewer to focus on your point of interest!

The Log Bridge - Varina Patel

Selective Focus

If you want your viewer to focus on something specific, why not let everything else go blurry? That’s what I’ve done with this shot of a frozen droplet hanging from a leaf. Your eye won’t rest for long on the smooth background simply because there isn’t much visual information to collect from that area of the image. Your eyes wants to focus on something – that’s what they do all day long, every day. It comes naturally to us – and I can use that basic human instinct to get your attention where I want it.

ohio_1662c

Color

Contrast is an important part of photography – but I’m not just talking about tonal contrast. In this case, I’m using color contrast to point my viewer toward the red flowers that are the twin subjects in this image. Everything else in the image is green, so the red flowers stand out because they are different.

california_1792

Size

In this case, I’m leading your eye using contrast in size – and also tone. Most people focus their attention on the largest and brightest of these salt crystals. Why? Because that’s the one that stands out. But why does it stand out? Our minds are wired to notice differences and similarities in everything we see – we are masters at categorization. I deliberately chose this composition to include just one larger crystal.

But wait… there is actually another large crystal in this shot, but people rarely notice it unless they are looking carefully. Why not? It’s not as bright or as well-defined as the other large crystal at the bottom left. So, the largest and the brightest gets the most attention. I could include that second large crystal in my shot because it didn’t have the same visual impact as the one I chose as the point of interest.

Salted - Varina Patel

Form

Contrast again. You guessed it. But this time, we’re talking about contrast of form. Those stripes in the sandstone form a clearly defined pattern. The leaf, of the other hand, is an obvious break in the pattern – and so it gets your attention.

Dare to be Different B&W - Varina Patel

Consider these ideas as you work with your camera next time you are out shooting. How can you use composition, leading lines, and contrast to lead the eye of your viewer toward your point of interest? Do you have suggestions for leading the eye? Feel free to share!