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The traditional use for circular polarizer in photography is for enhancing colors, reducing reflections on water, and cutting through glare on wet rocks. Here’s another great way to use a circular polarizer. Under right conditions, a circular polarizer can help intensify the colors of the rainbow. I used a circular polarizer to capture this shot from Niagara Falls in New York. In order to get such intense colors, I rotated the circular polarizer while looking through the view finder until the colors of the rainbow were at their brightest.

Rainbows are produced by white sunlight that is being scattered by water droplets in the air, so it’s important to realize that a circular polarizer can also reduce the intensity of the colors in the rainbow… or even remove it completely! I took this second shot at the same location on the same day – but I set my polarizer incorrectly to show the effect. The rainbow is barely visible in this second shot.

Use a circular polarizer to bring out those beautiful colors in the rainbow… but pay attention! Make sure the filter is rotated properly before taking your shot!

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When we talk about using reflections, the first thing that comes to mind is capturing reflections on the smooth and still surface of a body of water. Most of us will ignore the reflections on a windy day when the surface of the lake is choppy – or in a flowing stream. But reflected light can make an image beautiful even even when the reflection is blurred.

This is an abstract shot I took during our recent visit to the Big Island of Hawai’i. I positioned my camera so that the most intense reflected light surrounded a small cascade in the stream. The brilliant colors you see in the stream are reflected from vegetation that was lit by harsh, late morning sunlight. I chose a long shutter speed that would preserve the flow lines in the water to create a pleasing abstract.

What if I were to change the position of my camera? In the image above, I photographed the same cascade from a different angle. As you can see, the glowing colors are completely gone.

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Composing with Intent

Jay Patel —  January 21, 2013 — Leave a comment

In many photography courses, Composition is taught as a set of rules – but the topic goes far deeper than any collection of guidelines. A photographer can use composition to set the mood, create depth, highlight perspective, and focus a viewer’s attention on an object of interest. In the video below, Varina and I discuss how we use composition with SmugMugs’s Rocky ‘Bowles.

If you are interested in a SmugMug Pro Account, you can use this code for a 20% discount: SMUGMUGPATEL

How do you use composition to engage the viewer in your own photographs?

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Sometimes, I can finish post-production work in just a few minutes… and sometimes, it takes a lot longer. This shot from Snowmass Wilderness in Colorado was a real challenge. Let me see if I can give you an idea of what made it difficult, and how I handled the processing. First, taking this shot was an amazing experience. We watched this storm coming toward us for a short time, and then grabbed our cameras and headed out to get a few shots. The first thing that caught my eye were the colors. The brilliant golden leaves were a perfect compliment to the deep blue tones in the approaching storm. I wanted to capture that juxtaposition – and also capture the chaos in the sky. I chose a simple composition – ignoring the lake behind the trees and choosing a single peak to minimize distractions. I took several shots, waiting for a moment when the skies were full of textures.

Because the leaves were moving in the high winds, I knew I would need to capture the entire dynamic range with a single exposure. If I couldn’t do that, I would end up with a “ghosting” effect as I worked on a blend. If I could process a single image twice – once for the leaves in the foreground and once for the background – I would get a much cleaner blend. Because the skies were heavily overcast, I was able to get the shot I needed.

As the storm blew closer, I could hear the rain falling on the water of the lake – getting closer and closer. As the first drops fell on my camera, I packed up and headed back to the car – just in time. We both love storms, so we watched the rain for a while, and then continued on our way.

The first step in post, was to process the image for the leaves in the foreground and then again for the background. You can see those two images below.

I processed the image once for the leaves…

…and once again for the background.

Then, I created a mask using the color selection tool to isolate the yellow leaves on the lighter layer. The blend sounds simple enough… but moving leaves can be difficult to deal with – even when you are processing a single image twice for a blend. The problem is that some leaves are moving more than others. So, some are slightly blurred, some are completely blurred, and others are sharp. When I make a color selection, I feather it slightly for a smoother blend. The problem is that the selection needs more feathering in areas that are more blurred, and less feathering in sharper areas. That’s a tough problem when you are dealing with thousands of leaves.

I blended the images in Photoshop using our manual iHDR techniques.

Of course, there are lots of different ways I could have solved the problem in Photoshop – some easier than others. But there was no quick fix this time. I tried several different methods for refining my mask – from isolating and subtracting the blue channel to creating a soft light layer and using a targeted luminosity mask to capture those edges. I even converted the image to the ProPhoto color space so I could create a smoother luminosity mask for a cleaner transition in high contrast areas. The problem was worst where the branches reached above the horizon into the sky, so I used a mask to target that area on another layer.

Here are the layers I used for blending. Notice that I also used curves layers to bring out some contrast in the background layer, and to bring back the blue tones I remembered from being on location.

Still, I wasn’t satisfied. In the end, I decided to work on a pixel-by-pixel basis. I zoomed in close, and used the Precision Mode option on my Wacom Intuos 5 tablet to work on those tiny details. I made very slight adjustments to the mask for the foreground trees layer – painting on the mask itself. I went back and forth between my black and white brushes, changing the size of the brushes with the touch ring as I went.

Leaves at 100% – before mask refinement. Can you see the dark lines around some of the leaves?

Finished leaves at 100% – shadows on the leaves, and similar tones in the background made masking difficult. I used Precision Mode on my Wacom tablet to clean up my mask for a clean finish.

Of course, I didn’t make adjustments to every single leaf. I targeted those that seemed distracting and took a few extra minutes in those areas. Post-production for this shot took more than an hour – though some of that time was spent experimenting with techniques that didn’t work. You can see the finished image at the top of this post. What do you think?

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We plan our landscape photography outings so that we maximize our chances of getting the best weather patterns and the right seasons. But things don’t always go according to the plan. Experience has taught us to be flexible and open to new ideas.

I first visited Maroon Bells in 2007. I used an interesting root structure beneath the surface of the lake as a foreground object in the photo above. Five years later, in 2012, we returned to the lake again. This time, we discovered that the lake had shrunk dramatically because of a long summer drought. It no longer reached the grassy shores we remembered from our previous trip. Instead, the lake was surrounded by mud and rotting wood. The brilliantly colored moss that was growing under water in 2007  had died off. Here’s a shot of the same roots I photographed five years ago. The difference is stark.

Though the banks of the lake were uninspiring, I still felt that there was incredibly beauty to be captured in this place. I focused my attention on the creek and the mountains behind me. I waited until the clouds were lit up by the evening light and captured the photo below less than 50 yards from the roots in the first two shots.

I was able to come away with a photo that I like because I was willing to be flexible and look for alternative shots. So next time you are faced with unexpected conditions, don’t give up.

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What is a SOOC photo? SOOC stands for “Straight Out Of the Camera”. And those who use the term are generally looking for a pat on the back. Their photography is clearly superior because they “got it right” in the camera. No “manipulation”. No post-processing. Just a true representation of the scene in all its glory. When a photographer talks about their SOOC photos, they are often not-very-subtly implying that those who use processing software are cheating and that their photos are fakes. And that’s all well and good for them. I think I’ll stick to my post-processing, thank you very much. ;)

While I enjoy the challenge of “getting it right in the camera”, the fact is that even the most advanced cameras can’t always handle the broad dynamic range of light in nature. With the help of Photoshop, I am often able to create a photo that is much closer to reality than SOOC photos.

Consider the above image. I took this photograph of Lizard Lake in Colorado on a partly cloudy day. There’s no bright glaring sunlight here. The range of light isn’t very extreme. At first glance, the lighting, the colors, and the exposure look pretty well balanced. You might think that under such conditions, the photograph could be easily captured with a point-n-shoot or even a mobile phone camera in automatic mode. And a nice DSLR should be able to handle that range of light easily, right?

Well. No. This is not an SOOC image. In fact, I created this photo by blending three separate exposures using our iHDR workflow to maintain a natural look.

Here are the three bracketed exposures – SOOC using default settings. Notice that none of the individual exposures looks better than the processed image. And none of these SOOC shots represent reality as closely as the manually blended image. It is true that photographers can get pretty artistic with Photoshop and HDR technology – but in many cases, processing software also lets us bring our photographs much closer to reality than those SOOC photos.

There are – of course – LOTS of other good reasons to take the time to process your photos. This is just one of them!

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A while ago, I posted these two images on one of the social networks as an example of how my photography skills have evolved over time.

From a technical perspective, there are many flaws in the second photo. Some of the more obvious – mediocre composition, blown highlights, and lacking shadow details. The overall lighting for the photograph is too harsh. My goal was to capture the beauty of the place, but instead I came away with an image that is almost black and white.  Still, more than one viewer commented that the image was a “moody” and “artistic” representation of the scene.

My first reaction was to dismiss those comments. Maybe they were posted by people who lacked the skills required to produce the photograph I really wanted. But on further reflection, I realized that not all great artists rely on technical perfection to create an impact. Sometimes, artwork lacks “technical correctness”, but still produces a strong emotional impact.

So I found myself contemplating this question: Do photographers try to disguise their mediocre photography skills as “artistic”?

For me, the question comes down to intent. If my intent was to capture the color, light, and details I saw in the forest, then my image is less than mediocre. On the other hand, if my intent was to capture an artistic impression of the forest, then maybe you’d say I succeeded in doing so.

Of course, in this case, my intent was to capture the falls the way I did in the first image (a few years later). Clean colors, rich details, and smooth water. I didn’t know how to do that the first time I photographed these falls. So rather than categorizing my earlier attempt as a failure – I think of it as an opportunity to learn… and learn I did. Now that I know how to capture a scene like this one more effectively, I have so many more options!

Do you evaluate yourself by your artistic ability or by your technical skills?

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Conveying mood in a photograph sometimes requires a little extra care in your processing technique. I took this shot in Tinkers Creek State Park in Ohio on a foggy morning. To preserve the moody atmosphere, I processed a single RAW image twice – then combined these two versions of the same image using our iHDR Manual Blending Workflow.

Low Contrast Processing

Fog and humidity in the air reduce the contrast of objects that are farther away, so my first step was to process the RAW file with low contrast. The image you see above shows the result. The foggy atmosphere in the trees and highlights is preserved, but the grass in the foreground and the wooden boardwalk look dull and unappealing.

High Contrast Processing

Next, I used the same RAW file and processed the image with higher contrast settings. The image above shows that these adjustments produced good details in the foreground – but the appearance of the fog in the tree was all but lost. As a final step, I selectively combined the low-contrast and high-contrast images using layers and masks in Photoshop. I retain good details in the foreground, while also preserving the foggy, low-contrast mood in the trees and the highlights.

Great Blue

Varina Patel —  September 25, 2012 — Leave a comment

For me, this shot is about light, color, and detail. The brilliant golden eye of the heron is lit by the sun, which is low on the horizon. The eye stands out against the deeper blue tones of the bird. The directional light also highlights the details in the birds features and feathers. The incredible sharpness of the image, the beautiful lighting, and the complimentary colors make it one of my favorites.

This was an easy capture. I took a single shot and then checked my histogram to make sure I wasn’t losing any details. A few more shots and I had the image I wanted. No special processing or fancy tricks required. The light was right and the lens was sharp. Of course, a beautiful subject helps a lot! ;)

If you want some tips for photographing birds, check out this blog post from last week!

Effortless - Varina Patel

When it comes down to it – wildlife photography is about being willing to wait. You aren’t likely to just walk up a get that fantastic shot you were hoping for. Start by doing your research – find our where the animals hang out, what time of year they are most likely to be there, and what time of day they are most active.

Fly Over - Varina Patel

And once you’re there – be prepared to hang out for a while. Find a place to watch and wait – and take lots of photographs. If I’m photographing birds or other fast-moving creatures, I like to use a fast shutter speed and set my camera to take the maximum six shots per second in case one of these beauties decides to take off for me. But don’t just point the camera and fire off five-hundred photos. You’ll have to wade through all those shots later. Be ready to shoot – but don’t overdo it.

Glacier National Park - Montana, USA

Pay attention to the light while you are shooting. Bright light means you can use a faster shutter speed – but if the light is harsh, you’ll end up with blown highlights are very dark shadows. I love shooting wildlife in the shade or on slightly overcast days. Clouds make great diffusers - and the the soft, even lighting is easy to work with. Soft, directional lighting – think early morning or late evening – is also really beautiful. My goal is to show the textures in the fur, the catch-light in the eyes, and an interesting pose.

I also like to use predictive auto focusing (that’s “AI Servo” for Canon users). In AI Servo mode, the camera automatically adjusts the focus to follow any object that is moving in a predictable pattern. It’s a great help for birds in flight, animals on the move… or children playing soccer. As far as I’m concerned, photographing my kids is no different from shooting wildlife. ;)

Eyes of Blue - Varina Patel

For animal portraits, I like to use a narrow depth of field to help blur out the background – but make sure you keep that eye nice a sharp, no matter what! Watch for interesting poses, pleasing angles, and action shots. And just have fun with it! Animals are so much fun to shoot… you never know what they’re going to do!

Glacier National Park - Montana, USA

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